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Dérot-Delugny "Retour en Avant" Brut

Dérot-Delugny "Retour en Avant" Brut

Gary Westby
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K&L Buyer
Review Date: 02/2026

The Derot-Delugny estate has been producing their own Champagne for four generations in the tiny village of Croutes-sur-Marne in the western part of the region. Everything they do is estate, and this all Pinot Gris Champagne is their smallest production. It is the only time I have ever tasted a single variety Pinot Gris from Champagne, and it is fantastic as well as exotic! With both effusive and tropical notes, this is still grounded in the world of dry Champagne with a dry (7g/l) finish and plenty of minerality. A must try with asian cuisine!

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Price: $49.99
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Staff Reviews

Review Date: 03/2026
Email Jonathan
Pale yellow color. Beautiful, crisp nose of yeast/marmite, toast & brioche. The palate gives young green melon while fine bubbles coat the palate. Pair with tonkatsu, fried whole fish, risotto and shrimp etouffee.
GC
Review Date: 02/2026
Email Graham
This wine truly surprised me. I was worried that Pinot Gris’ high aromatics would overpower the nuance and elegance that defines Champagne, but with one sniff these worries were put to rest. The nose is toasty and chalky, as champagne should be, but still expresses the aromatic profile of Pinot Gris. There is a ton of red apple, pear, and honey on the nose. The palate confirms the nose and is beautifully complemented by a firm streak of acidity. If you like the generous fruit of Prosecco and are interested in trying something more refined, I would give this a try!
Review Date: 11/2025
Email Craig
"Retour en avant" literally translates to "return forward," as in, going back to your roots. What roots, you say? Well, this Champagne is made from 100% Pinot Gris. Yes, they are allowed to grow Pinot Gris in Champagne, but it is uncommon nowadays and near-extinct in the region. The founding family of Derot-Delugny were big fans of Alsatian wine, particularly Pinot Gris, so over 30 years ago they planted a small plot and that's where this comes from. So, yes, it is an oddity, but it is also delicious! I was genuinely impressed. Full of brioche with great acidity, and just a touch more fruit than a blanc de blanc, but still elegant. Also, full of minerality! Pinot Gris is tricky to grow in Champagne, and so they do not make this bottling every year, so pick it up while you have the chance. I could not stop revisiting this bottle all evening!

Notes

This incredible bottle is a true unicorn Champagne--all Pinot Gris! This is the only Champagne that I have ever had made exclusively from this variety that is now nearly extinct in the region. While it is exotic on the nose, the back end is all Champagne minerality. A must try for the complete imbiber of Champagne, and a huge pleasure to drink! It used to be known as the "cuvée fondateurs" but now the family changed the name. (Gary Westby, K&L Champagne buyer)

Product Details

Origin: Champagne, France

Type/Varietal: Pinot Gris

Alcohol Content: 12.5%

SKU: #1751361

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