Bright and steely, serious; upright with vertical lift, smoked oak fairly evident, with a little more present oak than some of them; there is some leafy mint qulaity steely, will age.

The white Malartic Lagraviere 2023 bursts with notes of honey-drizzled peaches, fresh Golden Delicious apples, and grapefruit oil, leading to touches of mandarin peel, crushed stones, and beeswax. The medium-bodied palate has impressive tension and texture framing the intense orchard fruit flavors, finishing long and perfumed.

The 2023 Malartic-Lagravière Blanc has a taut, correct and, in some ways, conservative bouquet that takes time to unfold in the glass. But, I appreciate the tension and mineralité. Hints of petrichor and Granny Smiths eventually take control. The palate is very well balanced with a fresh lemon sherbet-, orange pith- and lemongrass-tinged opening. There's a very appealing texture and impressive weight on the finish. Overall, this is a superb white Malartic to drink over the next 20 years. (NM)