2020 Laroque, St-Émilion

This vintage seems to combine aspects of the 2018 with the 2019, and with the lowest pH since the 2016 vintage. It exudes violets, rich black (but also cool blue) fruit, cherry and an unmistakably appealing expression of wet stone. By this vintage, 70% of the wine had been aged in grand formats of oak, yielding fruit purity. The sizes of the oak aging vessels vary. Some are 500 litres; others 3,000 and even 9,000. The wine has a certain iron rich aspect but communicates airy elegance and richness. Long finish indeed! (PK)

Laroque is one of the most exciting properties in Bordeaux, and often the first place I look when considering top-tier value in the region. Since David Suire took over in 2015 (having previously worked with Nicolas Thienpont of Larcis Ducasse), the estate has been on a steady ascent, crafting terroir-driven wines with remarkable texture, depth of flavor, and an elegance and freshness that belie their modest price point. While the press coverage may at first seem hyperbolic, the critical consensus is undeniably impressive. Ultimately, though, it’s what’s in the bottle that matters most, and this 2020 — from a great Right Bank vintage — captures everything that has elevated Laroque from an under-the-radar gem to a must-have value capable of rivaling anything at this price level. With bright fruit, seamless texture, incredibly fine tannins, and superb minerality, this is a complete package and a wine that is as enjoyable now as it will be for many years to come.