The style here in 2021 is very reserved, with finely crushed saline minerals complemented by layers of desiccated white peach, chamomile and verbena. This is matched by a supple and gently polished texture at the start, medium-bodied, with veins of bitter citrus pith, lightly bitter phenolics, and fabulously driven acidity. This is just delicious, with a saline and mouthwatering attack, and it displays great potential for development. Tasted twice.

The fine haze of oak spices is spot-on now with a mineral verve and lots of green stone fruit to the nose. This is broad and full-bodied on the palate with refreshing acidity and a fine bite of tannins that lends additional structure and seriousness to this white. Better from 2024. (ZS)

A fresh and fragranced nose with green fruit, apple, pear and lemon touches. Crisp and clean, lots of bitter grapefruit and orange combined with creamy lemon and apple giving a push pull of flavours. Not yet fully harmonised but there is potential. Lots of flavour nuance and good viscosity and weighty texture with a long length and good lift on the finish. Well made with promise. (GH)