The 2023 Mouton Rothschild is bright and explosive in the glass. Vibrant, rich, deep and so beautifully expressive, the 2023 Mouton is one of my early candidates for wine of the vintage. Cabernet Sauvignon is bumped up to 93% (the highest ever, just behind the 2010), with 7% Merlot and no Cabernet Franc or Petit Verdot in the blend. Time in the glass brings out darker shades of fruit along the wine's complex, dynamic personality. This is a magnificent Grand Vin. (AG)

A deep and generous red with red and black currants, black truffles and blue fruit. Full-bodied and spicy but still in balance. Luscious and flamboyant, then it tightens at the end. The fruit is very transparent and verges on exotic. but then it holds back with the tannins. It's so velvety and integrated. It changes all the time in the glass.

Gorgeous red and black fruit on the nose, really fruit-forward and expressive, not so much on the mineral or floral side. Smooth and supple, this has great movement: a sense of life, depth and richness, so suave. The fruit and tannins fill the mouth, but with delightful coolness – blueberry and crisp cherry. Liquorice and wet stones also come through; graphite, chalk, mint, a touch of toast on the finish. Flashes of exoticism, as well as finesse. Structure and seriousness but with bounce, full of texture and nuance. Stylish and characterful, a wonderful Mouton. (GH)