2023 Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac

A deep and generous red with red and black currants, black truffles and blue fruit. Full-bodied and spicy but still in balance. Luscious and flamboyant, then it tightens at the end. The fruit is very transparent and verges on exotic. but then it holds back with the tannins. It's so velvety and integrated. It changes all the time in the glass.

Gorgeous red and black fruit on the nose, really fruit-forward and expressive, not so much on the mineral or floral side. Smooth and supple, this has great movement: a sense of life, depth and richness, so suave. The fruit and tannins fill the mouth, but with delightful coolness – blueberry and crisp cherry. Liquorice and wet stones also come through; graphite, chalk, mint, a touch of toast on the finish. Flashes of exoticism, as well as finesse. Structure and seriousness but with bounce, full of texture and nuance. Stylish and characterful, a wonderful Mouton. (GH)