Aromas of cherries, plums, sweet berries, orange oil and licorice introduce the 2021 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, a full-bodied, supple and fleshy wine with a satiny attack that segues into an ample core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins, concluding with a long, perfumed finish. This can be quite structured out of the gates, but the inherent charm of the vintage has rendered it more than usually approachable. Tasting with affable eleventh-generation vigneron Pierre-Jean Roty—who took the helm at this discrete family-owned domaine following his brother's untimely passing in 2015—is an annual pleasure that I always eagerly anticipate. This year, it was the turn of the 2021s, wines that have nothing to fear from a comparison with other sunnier, drier recent years, exuding charm and perfume that will delight Burgundy purists. Roty fans will be familiar with the approach at this address: assiduously but only shallowly cultivated soils, a high proportion of old vines, minimal use of chemical treatments, destemmed grapes fermented in concrete tanks, and élevage in generous percentages of smoky new oak for 15-16 months. My sense is that today's wines are suppler than the Roty wines of yesteryear. They're less forbidding in their youth than their formidable reputation might suggest—even the grands crus boast such generosity of fruit that their rich structuring tannins are frequently concealed. But they develop just as gracefully as ever. Readers shouldn't hesitate to (WK)

The 2021 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru takes time to unfold in the glass but eventually offers enticing blackberry, sage, mandarin, and light allspice aromas. There's real depth here. The palate is medium-bodied with bold black fruit, impressive grip and density. The 100% new oak leaves some wood tannins on the finish, though they will be assimilated with time bottle. One for the more patient amongst you. (NM)

Note: from a .12 ha parcel in Mazis Bas. A moderately toasty nose is comprised by riper aromas of poached plum, black cherry, spice and plenty of sauvage character. There is good if not special concentration to the bigger-bodied flavors that are at once seductive yet powerful while delivering outstanding length on the sour cherry and sneaky long finish that is also quite firm. This could use better depth so at least some patience should prove beneficial.