The 2021 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru is especially good, bursting with aromas of red berries, cherries and plums mingled with peony, rose petals and spices. Full-bodied, supple and seamless, with an unctuous core of lively, perfumed fruit framed by melting tannins, it concludes with a long and perfumed finish. In its entirely different style, it's every bit as good as its 2020 counterpart. As readers may remember, it derives from a tiny enclave surrounded on three sides by Domaine Fourrier's parcel. Tasting with affable eleventh-generation vigneron Pierre-Jean Roty—who took the helm at this discrete family-owned domaine following his brother's untimely passing in 2015—is an annual pleasure that I always eagerly anticipate. This year, it was the turn of the 2021s, wines that have nothing to fear from a comparison with other sunnier, drier recent years, exuding charm and perfume that will delight Burgundy purists. Roty fans will be familiar with the approach at this address: assiduously but only shallowly cultivated soils, a high proportion of old vines, minimal use of chemical treatments, destemmed grapes fermented in concrete tanks, and élevage in generous percentages of smoky new oak for 15-16 months. My sense is that today's wines are suppler than the Roty wines of yesteryear. They're less forbidding in their youth than their formidable reputation might suggest—even the grands crus boast such generosity of fruit that their rich structuring tannins are frequently. (WK)