The 2012 Brut Blancs de Blancs Louis Salmon is a large-scale, ample wine. A rich, heady Champagne, the 2012 has started to open nicely. It is far more expressive today than it was a year ago. Even so, this remains a very young Champagne, one that needs time to shed some of its considerable baby fat. Baked apple tart, dried flowers, mint and dried citrus peel are some of the many nuances that emerge over time. Tropical notes wrap around the substantial finish. Dosage is 3.9 grams per liter. Disgorged: January 2023. (AG)

2012’s already expressive aromatics are reframed in explosive charry, flinty energy and an extra fluid freshness on the palate, supercharging the ripe lemon syrup, apricot and sweet spice flavours. Nimble and transparent with a precise palate unmarked by dosage or some of the rather heavier, more concentrated fruit that the year can bring. Tasted from magnum: a limited number have been released alongside the 2012 main 75cl release. Aged under cork during its second fermentation. (TH)

The 2012 Champagne Louis Salmon Blanc De Blancs is entirely from Côte de Blancs Grand Cru villages and saw 25% oak vinification, with most of the malo blocked to retain freshness. Initially, it opens to citrus-driven aromas of lime, but as it opens in the glass, it deepens to reveal notes of white peach, fresh bread, and a touch of toasted spice, with its portion of oak just highlighting the edges of the wine. The palate offers intensity without austerity, with a good, profound, layered feel, and it has a pillowy and elegant mousse, a coating texture of citrus oil, and a long finish. It’s already hard to resist but will improve with time. It’s a wonderful wine for Billecart-Salmon in this vintage. Bravo. Drink 2026-2046. It saw 3.9 grams per liter dosage and 4.4 grams in the final wine. (AF)