A cuvée I would never bet against, Vincent Dauvissat’s 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is generously structured and leaps from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, featuring notes of white peach, beeswax and lemon oil blending with marine flavors. Multidimensional and concentrated, it is supported by racy acidity and concludes with a long, chalky finish. At present, it is more fruit-forward and muscular than Les Preuses but not at the expense of the tension and chalky extract one expects from it. Which will ultimately prevail is open to interpretation, so at this early stage, I'll refrain from premature coronation.(KK)

Note: from 3 different parcels of 50+ year old vines that total 1.0 ha. This ripe effort displays an abundance of classic Chablis aromas of smoky mineral reduction, citrus peel, oyster shell and acacia blossom as well as just the vaguest hint of the exotic. There is terrific punch and a taut muscularity to the more mineral-driven middleweight plus flavors that exhibit focused power on the impressively long and well-balanced finale. This is the densest wine in the range in 2022 and a wine that should age accordingly. In a word, brilliant.

This is a majestic Les Clos hailing from three parcels that average 65 years in age. There is ample ripeness in the dense bushels of orchard fruits, but there is also pronounced tension that will give this wine the time to age to benefit—as it should. The upfront and fully ripe fruits one could enjoy now are nothing in comparison to the complexity that will unleash in the bottle. There is rigorous intensity here that the bustling acidity easily carries into the gloriously long finish. Please don't open it before ten to fifteen years past vintage!