The most vivid note of black licorice I’ve yet to encounter comes together with crushed raspberries, grilled sage and violet pastille as the multifaceted 2021 Aglianico blossoms in the glass. This mixes soft textures with depths of ripe red and black fruits, gaining tension as a staining of primary concentration takes hold along with fine-grained tannins. Despite its structure, the 2021 keeps the palate fully engaged, casting lavender tones and hints of sweet tobacco over a tart saturation of blackberry and balsamic spice. There is simply so much going on here, yet balance is expertly maintained. Give this new-world take on Aglianico another two or three years of cellaring and reap the rewards.

Intense blackberry, fresh cherry, spicy anise and savory charcoal aromas converge on the nose of this bottling of a Puglian grape, still uncommon in California. Crisp berry flavors are dusted in roasted fennel and more charred elements on the palate. (MK)