An example of purity and stony tension, Vincent Dauvissat’s 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is the crowning achievement of an extraordinary portfolio. With an understated Chablisien character, it opens in the glass to reveal a marine bouquet of oyster shell and iodine mingling with lemon zest and white flowers. Refined and laden with incisive acids, an abundance of chalky structuring extract and with a persistent, searingly saline finish, it is more ethereal and elegant than Les Clos yet possesses all the prerequisites to age as gracefully—provided the cork holds.(KK)

The name of the vineyard is a version Pierreuses, referencing the huge blocks of stone underneath a reasonable marly topsoil. The 2022 displays a really complex nose, a bit of sun on the stones, the cailloux chauds of the amphitheatre in which Vincent Dauvissat’s holding sits. Then follows a massive development of fruit on the palate too. There is really a huge volume of fruit at the back, with a little iodine touch throughout. Makes one salivate! Drink from 2032-2045.

Dauvissat has two sizeable plots in Les Clos, one mid-level, the other a little higher. This has plenty of sweet fruit and quite a hit of oak at the moment. With more time in the glass, zesty orange and kumquat notes emerge together with thrilling acidity. Once in bottle and given a few years' ageing, this will be a thrilling example of Les Clos. (AH)