Chenevery in the north accounts for 60%, assembled with Clos Solon (centre) and Porroux to the south. 8.5 barrels made from 0.90ha which I calculate as about 22 hl/ha. Rich deep purple, this has energy and power but not too overdone, with some crunch, vibrant red fruits with a little black alongside, good tannins, not too fine but not too firm, and an excellent finish. Gourmandise and precision. I was surprised to hear that this weighs in at 14.85% alcohol, but I still really like the wine.

Offering up aromas of cassis, red berries, warm spices and loamy soil, the 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie is medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a deep and youthfully tightly wound core of fruit that's framed by lively acids and powdery tannins. This is likely to emerge as Lignier's finest communal-level bottling this year, but it will also require the most patience. Laurent Lignier began his harvest on August 27, reporting below-average yields and finished alcohols between 13% and 14%. Once again, the result is a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and négociant sources—the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks' maceration with one pigéage and one rémontage per day and maturation in barrels, some one-third of which are new—if possible, without racking—for fully 22 months in the domaine's cold cellars. The 2020s are more primary and tightly wound than Lignier's 2019s, but they're similar in terms of ultimate quality and are well worth seeking out. (WK)

From three different lieux-dits, the youngest vines planted in the Fifties, the 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis "Trilogie" has a beautifully-defined bouquet with iris flower and touches of peony infusing the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. There is fine backbone here, quite serious despite its status with a granular finish. Excellent. (NM)