An exuberantly floral nose combines notes of rose petal, violet, lavender, earth, clove and black cherry liqueur. The almost painfully intense, sappy and muscular big-bodied mouth coating flavors brim with minerality on the explosively long and balanced finish that is less youthfully austere than usual. Even so, the supporting tannins are prominent and leave no doubt that this is going to mature gracefully if slowly. This stunningly good Clos des Ducs is a clear candidate for the best Côte de Beaune red in the 2020 vintage. *Burghound Don't Miss Outstanding!*

This iconic wine from the d’Angerville estate is a 2.15-hectare monopole that begins on the north side of the village and climbs up the white marl soils of the slope here, producing wines with a bright red berry fruit with notes of licorice, ginger, and violets. The wine is not as full-bodied as those south of the village, but with a lovely, silky character. D’Angerville explains that the aromas are 'almost peppery' and that recent vintages have delivered perfect conditions for Volnay. Drinking Window 2025 - 2060. (CC)

Readers will have a fun time debating the relative merits of d'Angerville's 2018, 2019 and 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs in 20 years' time, as for now it is a very close-run thing. The 2020 is certainly superb, wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet cherries, plums and berries mingled with spices, orange zest, peony and discreet hints of oak, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and seamless palate that's bright, elegant and rich but refined. Of the trio, it's probably the 2020 that carries the sunshine and warmth of the vintage the most lightly, even though the year was, on paper, the most extreme. (WK) 95+