The grand vin is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, with no Cabernet Sauvignon, which all went into the second wine, a marker of the dry character of the vintage. While the second wine is eager to please, the grand vin hints at a much greater level of quality, with the same voluptuous and confident style, but it is darker, more savoury, more controlled, with suggestions of violets, dark chocolate, coffee bean and currants. The palate is focused, with beautifully straight sides, such exquisite harmony, carrying flavours of dark chocolate, damson, currant and violets, melted tar, with beautifully ripe tannins, so perfectly integrated, they create a seamless frame for the wine, melding perfectly with the dark and savoury fruits. Meanwhile the finish is dry, savoury, gripped and long. Concentrated yet also tense, straight and delineated, forever fading in the finish, this is absolutely stunning. A real shake-your-head, stare-at-your-glass, how-do-they-do-it kind of wine. Alexandre Thienpont says it reminds him of the 1945, and I am not really in a position to disagree. This is one 2020 which sent real shivers down my spine – and that was not because I tasted it in the cool air of the Vieux Château Certan cellars.