The grand vin from Nicolas Glumineau, begins with a vivid combination of dark and savoury fruits set against a frame of tense and direct structure, which works beautifully together. There are layers of blackcurrants, griottes, black cherry, smoke, liquorice and tar, beautifully poised and delineated. The palate does not disappoint, with a core of dark, savoury, brilliantly concentrated and yet floral fruits, all layered with currants, violets, chocolate and toast, and framed within a scaffolding of ripe and gripping tannins. It pushes on through the finish, and is brilliantly long, and yet it maintains such a fine sense of elegance. A quite brilliant composition here, and a superb addition to any cellar.

Smooth, seductive and finely textured, this is both sleek and strict, with a savoury, crushed stone saline tang alongside tobacco, tar, ripe black cherries and soft floral scents; the Cabernet really makes its mark. Sexy and rich, less immediately charming than the 2019 was at this point - it’s more restricted and coiled but more sophisticated, elegant and refreshing - a wine you want to sit and think about while the aromas and flavours open and evolve. Lovely definition, weight and texture overall. A clear stand out. (GH)

The Grand Vin 2020 Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse De Lalande checks in as 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc that was raised in 60% new French oak. It has classic Pauillac character in its red, blue, and black fruits as well as graphite, cedar pencil, violet, and flower nuances. Seemingly from a cooler vintage with its purity, vibrancy, and focus, it nevertheless is concentrated and has ripe, gorgeous tannins, a great mid-palate, and a finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. A deep, concentrated, flawlessly balanced 2020 that's built for the long haul, it needs a solid decade of cellaring and will be a 50+-year wine. Of the recent trilogy of 2018, 2019, and 2020, director Nicolas Glumineau has been consist in preferring the 2020, although I think at this point the nudge goes to the 2019. Regardless, these are all truly singular, magical wines that every reader will be thrilled to have in the cellar. It's a good time to be a Bordeaux lover!