Tautly textured, the Champagne is delicious with a poise between white and citrus fruits along with touches of maturity coming through. Drink this magnificent wine now for its great balance and intensity. *Cellar Selection* (RV) 97+

This iteration of Grand Siècle is almost entirely composed of two of Champagne's greatest recent vintages, so expectations are high. The wine more than meets them, tempering the generosity of 2012's fruit – ripe apricots, white peach, clementines and sunny, zesty citrus – with a pitch-perfect streak of 2008 tautness and structure. There are some fleshy, creamy notes of papaya and toasted white sourdough, but everything is as delicately rendered as expected and impeccably shaped, with a sleek, silky mousse. A little more approachable than Itération No. 25, it will welcome extended bottle age rather than demand it. The blend is 58% Chardonnay and 42% Pinot Noir from eight grand cru vineyards. 65% is from the 2012 vintage, 35% from 2008 and 10% from 2007. (TH)

A blend of the 2012, 2008 and 2007 vintages, the NV Brut Grand Siècle #26 is just coming onto the market. Wafting from the glass with notes of nectarine, peach and ripe citrus fruits mingled with notions of freshly baked bread, buttered toast, nougat, white flowers and clear honey, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a deep and rather broad-shouldered core of fruit that's girdled by racy acids and animated by a classy pinpoint mousse. This suave, complex three-vintage blend is the Grande Marque prestige cuvée par excellence. This bottle was disgorged in February 2023 with seven grams per liter dosage. (WK) 96+