The 2012 Celebris makes its case as the finest release of the house in recent times, marrying taut and precise Chardonnay (that includes the freshness of cooler crus Cuis and Grauves) with a supporting frame of fragranced Pinot Noir to delicate yet persistently complex effect. Toasted almond, citrus peel and ripe pear are brought forward by sweet, fragrant cherry, strawberry tart and orange blossom notes, the structure narrow but filled out with subtle nougat richness and a powdery, chalky length. A quiet, elegant mousse. Integrated, focused and ageworthy. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir from the southern and eastern Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs with 10 years on lees. (TH)

Gosset's emblematic Chardonnay-dominant 2012 Extra-Brut Celebris is a more than worthy successor to the 2008, unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, verbena, freshly baked bread, green apple and wet stones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive palate that's layered, concentrated and tensile, with a tangy spine of acidity (the house's trademark) and a long, saline finish. (WK) 95+

The Celebris 2012 Brut emerges gracefully from the glass with poached yellow apple, kumquat, puff pastry, and vanilla cream notes. The medium to full-bodied palate has buoyant acid freshness and a bright salinity that highlights juicy red fruit, morello cherry and citrus notes. This 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir blend is aged a minimum of ten years in cellar, finished with a 5.5 gram per liter dosage, then cellared an additional nine months before release. The bottle tasted was disgorged in March 2023. (SM)