Baron-Fuenté "Quinconce" Brut Nature Champagne (formerly Esprit)

Once upon a time, before Climate Change became a reality for the people of Champagne, Brut Nature could be an almost punishing designation. These high-acid wines with zero dosage would sing on the palate, bringing line after line of racy and ripping acidity that would be austere to the point of masochism, you know, in that fun wine way. Now, they're often higher in acid but with the warming of it all, they're not nearly as punishing. This is a great example, because the nose has a lot of promise with a lot of sourdough accompanying a Cosmic Crisp apple and some lemon zest. The palate is bright and mouthwatering but not punishing, instead this is just on the edge, there's still a roundness there that pulls back that final punch and instead gives you a little pat on the shoulder. This is deliciously intense in the best of ways. Always one of my favorites year after year.

This exuberant bottle shares the foundation of the Quinconce Brut—only with zero dosage added before release. Like its counterpart, it receives exceptional care throughout production, including an impressive seven years of lees aging. While some Brut Nature cuvées can feel overly racy or unbalanced, lady time has worked her magic here. The laser-like acidity is perfectly tempered by the richness of lees aging and a masterful assemblage, resulting in a wine that is as seamless as it is striking. Simply put, it’s a lifted, bright, and beautifully balanced bubbly—one I can’t wait to pour another glass of.