Abtserde is a small parcel that was revived by Klaus-Peter Keller in 2006. At that time, he was only allowed to use the abbreviation Abts E because of production regulations, whereas today he could use the full name again, but Abts E has established itself. It's only nuances, but Abts E is streets ahead of Morstein or Hubacker in terms of quality in this vintage. The aromas range from herbal extract, quince jelly and lemon jelly to lemon zest, all very dense and super concentrated. Stylistically reminiscent of Clos St Hune. (CM)

The 2020 Abtserde is every bit as brilliant as the Morstein in this vintage, just differently styled and I am sure that each bottling will have its own coterie of fans over the coming fifty years! The bouquet shows all of the purity and precision that are the calling cards of the 2020 vintage, offering up a beautiful constellation of tart orange, sweet grapefruit, lemon peel, wild yeasts, a kaleidoscopic base of salty limestone minerality and a topnote of citrus blossoms. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, seamless and effortless in its perfect balance, with a stellar core of fruit, great mineral drive and cut, beautiful focus and a very, very long, pristine and nascently complex finish.

Lavender, thyme, iris, narcissus, lemon and grapefruit confront the nose. The polished, subtly silken palate impression is more coolingly green-herbal and sweetly suggestive in inner-mouth perfume than the assertive pungency that the aromas suggested. As usual for this always remarkable bottling, there is an amazing sense of clarity, vibrancy and lift, accompanied by a near-kaleidoscopic interaction of floral, herbal, citric and mineral elements. (DS)