This first vintage under the new name, a slightly traumatic change (for me at least!) from Château Lalande Borie because I was a big supporter of the previous incarnation. This remains largely grapes from a 25ha plot on west side of St Julien, together with young vines from the Ducru estate (hence no longer qualifying for the château designation). Having said that, the quality is still brilliant, and it offers a clear reason to choose this wine as an approachable St Julien before heading upwards to Madame de Beaucaillou. Black fruits smothered in liquorice, dark chocolate shavings, cocoa beans, espresso, cassis. It has a clear link to Ducru, you get the shot of sexiness, the feeling that you are being invited in to the party. 30% new oak for 12 months.

The 2019 Le Petit Ducru de Ducru-Beaucaillou is plush, creamy and open-knit, all of which give it considerable immediacy, not to mention tons of charm. Succulent dark cherry, plum, mocha and licorice lend nuance in this racy, Merlot-based blend. The Petit Ducru is a new wine meant to be the third selection from the château. (AG)

A complete, spicy wine, full of acidity balanced by the tannic structure. The wine is dense, with a firm core. This is the junior wine of Ducru-Beaucaillou. Drink from 2025. (RV)