The usual three plots yielding an acceptable 25-30hl/ha. Fine and pale colour, the bouquet is correct but discreet, while showing Samuel’s habitual finesse. Really quite steely on the palate with a little squeeze of citrus, and impeccable length. Another tribute to the brilliance of Samuel Billaud’s vinification. Drink from 2024-2027.

Aromas of white flowers, orange zest, oyster liquor and exotic top notes preface the 2021 Chablis Village, a medium to full-bodied, satiny wine built around an assertive spine of acidity, concluding with a somewhat mordant finish. Samuel Billed continues to cement his reputation as one of the town's best half-dozen producers, crafting wines characterized by textural seamlessness and unerring precision. Working with four hectares of organically farmed estate vineyards, supplemented by purchased grapes, manual harvesting of ripe but bright fruit is the rule here, followed by fermentation at 16 to 20 degrees Celsius in tank or inconspicuous wood, then maturation for 15 to 18 months on the lees for the premier cru and grand cru bottlings. Billaud observed that, in his experience, Chablis's right bank fared better than its left, and he was able to retain more lees for his right bank cuvées. This is a strong portfolio that avoids the vintage's weak points and capitalizes on its strengths, and it will appeal to Chablis purists. I've also reviewed some 2022s that were already in bottle, as they are likely to reach the market before I make it back to the region. (WK)