Laberinto has a half-hectare of país planted some 30 years ago beside Lago Colbún, from which it obtains this juicy wine with fruity notes. Gentle, delicate extraction has made the texture extra smooth by the variety’s standards, while red-fruit flavors mingle with herbal notes, and the acidity is fresh and lively. This wine was fermented in concrete and amphorae, where it remained for about eight months before being bottled.

Nervy white pepper funk, grilled grapefruit, peat and wild raspberries. Juicy and nicely rustic, with textured fruit tannins. A very well-made pais that shows tension, structure and drinkability. I'd rate it even higher were there more length. 20% whole clusters and 50% fermented in amphorae. 5,000 bottles made. Drink now or hold. (ZS)