The 2021 Nuits St. Georges “Murgers” from Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat is another excellent wine. The bouquet shows off the inherent elegance of the vintage, delivering a constellation of plims, black cherries, venison, raw cocoa, woodsmoke, a fine base of dark soil tones, coffee bean and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and soil-driven, with a fine core of black fruit, bouncy acids, ripe, buried tannins and a long, complex, properly reserved and utterly seamless finish. This has lots of Henri Jayer personality to it this year. 2034-2080.

A sturdy mid red purple. This goes back to the peppery style, again with good fruit. Slightly less hedonistic than some years, unsurprisingly. A fresh red raspberry fruit dominates.

The 2021 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers opens in the glass with notes of wild berries, petals, smoked duck and orange zest. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, with fine concentration, lively acids and a cool core of pure, vibrant fruit, it has turned out well. (WK)