2020 Domaine Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet "Les Enseignères"

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignières is especially successful this year, bursting from the glass with notes of crisp stone fruits, white flowers, blanched almonds, pastry cream and sesame oil. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a concentrated core of fruit, racy acids and striking purity and precision, it's an elegant, penetrating wine that stands out even in this very compelling portfolio. This is another terrific vintage for Raphaël Coche, who exuded an easy confidence when I saw him in the aftermath of the 2020 vintage, which makes complete sense when one has the wines in the glass. Coche compares the style of 2020 with 1990, a comparison he isn't the only producer to draw, and in the wines' combination of flesh, precision, energy and immediate charm, it makes a lot of sense. In previous vintage reports, I've devoted much ink to the subtle stylistic evolution that has taken place at this address in the 21st century, so I won't reprise all that now. Suffice it to say that this is a superb set of wines from one of Burgundy's most perfectionist, passionate producers. (WK)