This has a lovely nose of raspberries, citrus peel, star anise, brioche and walnuts. Creamy, supple and inviting, with soft bubbles and a playful finish. 100% pinot noir, 72% from 2015 with 28% reserve wines. 1g/L dosage. Delicious now.

Blanc de Noirs from 2015 have been difficult to recommend on the whole, although this release spins an unusually restrained take on the year. Roasted pear, blackberry and pale honey promise richness, enlivened by some detail of verbena, orange citrus and brown tart pastry. Open rather than rigidly structured, this holds more clarity and fluidity than many wines of 2015. Pinot Noir from Verzenay, Verzy, Ambonnay, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, vinified entirely in stainless steel. (TH)

Broad and richly perfumed. A fine contrast to the more rigid No 4 all-Chardonnay bottling. Flattering and seductive. You would never guess the dosage is so low, so rich is the fruit. In fact the wine almost tastes sweet! Well done, Billecart for experimenting with the rich variety of what Champagne has to offer. (JR)