2021 Domaine Arlaud Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

A fine red purple colour. A light reduction on the nose. There is quite powerful fruit for the vintage, allied to Cyprien’s refined style, slightly rougher tannins, whether an aspect of Gevrey or fractionally lighter maturity. Precision at the back, a fine intensity of fresh raspberry, and the requisite length. Drink from 2028-2034.

The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru derives from a one-hectare parcel in Mazoyères that's harvested in three picks and vinified in two vats. Medium to full-bodied, supple and fleshy, it's a sensual red evocative of dark berries, spices, sweet soil tones and baking chocolate. My visit to Cyprien Arlaud's cellars in Morey-Saint-Denis was long overdue, but the 2021 vintage has paired well with this 14-hectare domaine's sensual, seamless style, so it was a felicitously timed first visit. Certified organic and biodynamic, Arlaud farms several of his parcels by horse. Winemaking is understated, with both stems and new oak firmly in the background irrespective of their varying percentages, privileging above all purity of fruit and textural finesse. Elegant and precise, I found much to admire at this address, which has been quietly progressing over the last decade to arrive at its present level, but which shows no signs of resting on its laurels. (WK)