A more fragrant Yjar this year, more peppery and lifted. Chalk, pepper and mezcal-like herbs with hints of cedar and cocoa powder to the blueberries. Super refined tannins tread carefully on the medium- to full-bodied palate with great juiciness and a long, polished finish. An intrinsic expression.

The third vintage by oenologist-winemakers Telmo Rodriguez and Pablo Eguzkiza, the 3.8-hectare, single-vineyard cuvée from the limestone foothills of the Sierra de Toloño in Rioja Alavesa is made from a massal selection of Tempranillo, Graciano, Garnacha, Granegro and Rojal. A lovely bright pink-red colour in the glass. Supple and succulent, smooth and round, such a lifeforce on show, a step up slightly from last year - clearly so energetic, forward and sleek. This is defined and powerful no doubt, this is packing a punch in terms of intensity this year, focussed and spiced, the heat and oak come through strongly, but it manages to stay the right side of too much, giving direction and force with lashings of cooling minerality, dried herbs and floral touches. A great wine, joyous, bright, enveloping and high toned. It pulls the palate from black and red fruits to toasted spice, cinnamon, vanilla, blackcurrants and kirsch. Complex and compelling, Yjar always leaves a smile on my face wanting to try another glass and this is no exception. (GH)

The 2019 Yjar is the third vintage of their top-of-the-range wine designed for the international market and sold through the négociant system of Bordeaux. It was produced with a blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and other grapes from 3.8 hectares of selected plots from the Remelluri vineyards, cropped from a challenging year with frost. This feels young but already very Rioja, marked by the Garnacha, which could represent around 30% of the bottled blend. It's tense and has abundant but fine-grained tannins, a little Italian in style. They kept a lower alcoholic degree in 2019, a moderate 14%, and the wine comes through as very elegant. This has to be my favorite vintage of Yjar. (LG)