Moreau produced a mere 350 liters of the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Grandes Ruchottes, but its quality is some compensation for the tiny quantity. Unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, fresh apricot, citrus zest, nutmeg, fresh mint and warm bread, it's medium to full-bodied, chiseled and multidimensional, with searing levels of concentration, racy acids, chalky structuring dry extract and a long, saline finish. Between the spring frost and a protracted flowering, Alex Moreau reported that yields at this address were appreciably diminished, ranging from a decidedly low 25 hectoliters per hectare to a moderate 40. Harvest began here on September 7, and alcohols top out at 13.4%. Fermentations were a little fast for Alex's liking, but this is once again a superb range, meriting a place in any well-stocked Burgundy cellar. Serious and concentrated, these 2019s evoke the domaine's 2015s, but if anything they're even better balanced. An unusually hurried schedule, compressed by France's second COVID-19 lockdown, precluded revisiting the bottled 2018s, an oversight that will be remedied later this year—from my own cellar, if necessary. In any case, as ever, any wine bearing the Moreau label comes warmly recommended. (WK)