2020 Les Pagodes de Cos, St-Estèphe

This has a delightfully open, floral and minerally aromatic profile, with wafting notes of perfumed chalk, fragrant hedgerow berries, crushed white gravel and white freesias. The palate is tightly controlled, savoury and dry, with a gently polished, supple and seamless texture wrapped within a narrow ribbon of tightly integrated tannins. It has a peppery sense of energy, but the overarching impression is one of fresh and composed harmony. Indeed, so perfectly integrated are the various components that it feels approachable now, although there is a simmering tannic grip which means I would favour waiting five or preferably ten years before you pull the cork. You won’t regret it if you do. The élevage here was in 30% new oak, for 12 months, and the alcohol is 13.28%. It took about half the estate’s crop in this vintage, as did the grand vin.

Ripe dark fruits on the nose, smells fleshy with liquorice, tobacco, dried herb and dark chocolate flecks. Smooth and sleek on the palate, gorgeous texture and weight in the mouth. Grippy and mouthfilling with powdery tannins that gently support the rich fruit profile. A bold, confident wine with chew and flesh and lots of appeal. One for sooner drinking to enjoy the youthful opulence but will age too. (JA)