This wine seems to always deliver, and I loved the 2020 Clos De L'Oratoire. Lots of black cherries, subtle cassis, notes of lead pencil and violets, medium to full-bodied richness, and a balanced, elegant texture all make for a beautiful Saint-Emilion. It picks up more minerality with time in the glass, and its purity of fruit is top-notch. It will keep for at least two decades.

The 2020 Clos de l'Oratoire is wonderfully savory. Lavender, mint, sage, licorice and spice lend striking aromatic nuance to a Clos de l'Oratoire that emphasizes energy over volume, as has sometimes been the case in the past. The blueberry and blackberry fruit is finely sculpted in a wine that impresses with its vibrancy and drive. Clean, mineral notes inform the brisk finish. The 2020 is such a classy wine. (AG)

Confident and grippy with liquorice, cherry, rosemary, dried herbs and chocolate. It lifts and tightens through the plate, good tension, broad-shouldered, powerful and intense. 40% new oak. (JA)