Herbal-edged raspberries and red cherries, bramble elements, coffee, tobacco, clove, dark chocolate., violets, roses and dark berries on the nose. Silky but sleek, rich but firm, this has a focus to it straight away, crushed velvet tannins give the cushioning but with a cool blue and black fruit and wet stone, mineral grip that expands in the mouth. Still a little closed, this is knitted down - you get the power and the concentration - there's density but it's waiting and taking its time. A little strict but there is a pixelation of elements with lots of freshness. Just shy right now, this will grow into a beauty. Well executed and deliberate. Concentrated and classy with incredible length. Ageing 15 months, 60% new oak. (GH)

Layers of luscious dark fruits, vivid and carefully drawn, bright and finessed, great balance. Dense griotte cherries, raspberry, sage, violet, shot through with real freshness, crushed mint leaf and pomegranate. 60% new oak. Organic conversion began officially in 2021 but the farming was entirely organic even at this point. An early harvest that underlined the new era, where ripening happens earlier pretty much every year, something that is particularly felt in early-ripening areas like Pomerol and underlines the importance of its clay soils keeping freshness. Technical director Mathieu Bonté.

From several small parcels on the plateau which proprietor Jean-Baptiste Bourotte believes perform best in dry years, thanks to the rich presence of clay. This is a real step up from Bonalgue, the other main Pomerol in the Bourotte-Audy portfolio, with scents of dried flowers, dried black cherry and currant, with a little hint of caramel coming through from the oak at the moment. The palate is very structured, with notes of floral violet and freesia, a rich core of dark cherry and curranty fruits, with a brooding undercurrent of rich and sooty tannins, and plenty of fresh acidity to drive it forward. Beautiful aromatics here, but also a velvety substance, rich fruit and a ripe and grippy structure, so this is clearly one that will evolve nicely, probably over several decades. An impressive, well made wine.