The 2022 Château Margaux obliged reams of superlatives from barrel. Now in bottle, it is a stone-cold breathtaking First Growth that belongs on the mantelpiece alongside the 1959 and 1983. That said, at first, the aromatics are bashful, yet it takes little to unfurl in jaw-dropping fashion, armed with heavenly pure black fruits laced with peony and iris flower and exuding mineralité (which is a mighty achievement given the season). The palate is imbued with stunning pixelation. There is a little more structure than I recall—an enthralling sense of architecture and thrilling tension, the pH of around 3.65 imparting acidic spine. Winemaker Philippe Bascaule remarked that he cannot compare the 2022 to another vintage. This is a profound Château Margaux that sets a contemporary benchmark. (NM)

Stunning in its density and construction, with a gorgeous balance that starts with red rose aromatics and slides into creamy and intense raspberry, damson, loganberry and cassis fruits. The intense structure of the vintage is on display, here with velvety tannins giving shape and contrast by a push and pull of slate, graphite, cloves, turmeric, cardamom and white pepper. Bitter dark chocolate ending, a character of the year but here delivered with a blast of cooling mint leaf. Philippe Bascaules director, harvest September 8 to 27, 25hl/h yield. 100% new oak, to be monitored carefully over ageing because this is the first time they have seen this level of alcohol in the Cabernet Sauvignon. 40% of the crop is into this 1st wine, one of the highest in years. Harvest September 8 to 27. They are slowly changing the row orientation in the vineyard at Margaux, begun last year but a 50 year project, and introducing more Cabernet Franc through field grafting (wanting to get up to maybe 15% of plantings, currently 5%).

I have never encountered a wild Margaux like this. Cassis and blackcurrant aromas with hints of crushed stones and bitter chocolate. The palate is full-bodied but not heavy or ponderous. Really well-structured with fantastic fine tannins that tighten on the palate, giving this so much liveliness and length. Compacted and energetic at the end. 92% cabernet sauvignon and 6% merlot and 2% cabernet franc. Exceptional. Best after 2029.