To say that I was impressed by this wine would be an understatement. The 2008 vintage remains the greatest of my 23-year career buying champagne, and this, along with the Krug and Cuvée Louis Blanc de Blancs, also from Billecart, will be locked in a battle for the best wine of that vintage for generations to come. The wine has a beautiful light gold color, and the most gorgeous tiny streamers, both a product of the incredible patience that this house has shown in ageing this monumental cuvée. The bouquet shows off the Verzenay Pinot Noir in the blend with a fine, detailed hazelnut bread aroma that has the generosity of Richebourg. In the mouth, the wine has an autumnal style, with nougat and warm panettone notes. The finish is what sets this wine apart, and for me is the greatest feature of the wine; it manages kaleidoscopic complexity with yet more nutty depth fused to pure, clean white fruit and chalk. The back end could be from the best pure Mesnil chardonnay on the planet, and is so long and mineral that I am still haunted by it days later.

Along with the 2008 Krug, the 2008 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart" NFB Brut Champagne is already being called one of the top champagnes of the vintage, which is saying a lot because 2008 is universally considered the best vintage of the 21st century. What makes the 2008 so special in comparison to other lauded vintage years? Champagne's weather is lousy and erratic. Even in vintage years the physiological development of the grapes' ripeness and acidity can be erratic as well. In 2008, however, there was constant sunshine, which allowed the grapes to gradually ripen to perfection, and a constant cold breeze, which allowed the acidity to gradually develop to perfection at the same time! These goldilocks conditions are rare. Throw in a top producer who has been at the sparking game since 1818 and you've got the 2008 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart" NFB Brut Champagne. Already 25 years old, this champagne is drinking beautifully, but it's going to age forever so if you're looking for a liquid prize to store in your cellar this is the one. Enjoy!

This bubbly is gorgeous and really shows why everyone is (or should be) so in love with 2008 vintage Champagne. The nose is a bouquet of flowers, rich brioche turned into French toast, baked pear, and lemon curd. The palate is bright and elegant with laser-focused lemon, chalky minerality, fresh peaches, hazelnut, and then more of that baked pear into the finish.