1990 Moët & Chandon "Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque" Brut Champagne (nicked label)

I reported on the first disgorgement of 1990 Dom Pérignon a couple of issues back in the feature on this superb bottling, and was very happy to see the 1990 Oenothèque, later disgorgement bottle make an unannounced appearance at a recent old vintage wine dinner. Like many of the 1990 vintage Champagnes, the original disgorgement of Dom Pérignon has aged fairly briskly (particularly for this cuvée) and is now getting towards the far side of its plateau, but the later-disgorged Oenothèque version is still at its apogee and is drinking with more bounce, mineral drive and precision. The classic nose wafts from the glass in a blend of apple, peach, flinty minerality, sourdough bread, orange peel and plenty of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, vibrant and à point, with fine focus and grip, still very good mousse and lovey length and grip on the wide open, but still quite zesty finish. This is drinking very well and has plenty of life ahead of it, but it is also fully mature now and will not improve with further bottle age. (Drink between 2018-2035)

Disgorged in 1993, this wine seems very youthful. Lovely aromas and flavors of smoke, toast, citrus fruit and cream still need more time to develop the rich, nutty notes that characterize well-aged Dom. Although some purchasers will prefer this wine's freshness, I think I'd prefer a well-cellared example from the original release. Try holding this another 5-10 years. (JC)