If you like your St Juliens with finesse and balance, head to the 2019 vintage of Ducru, with its gorgeous slate, pencil lead, cigar box, cassis, bilberry, and mint leaf focus. This has tension and restrained tannic architecture, and yet opens up mid palate to allow the fruit to show its creamy side. Such clever construction, and hard to resist. Harvest September 20 to October 10. 3.8ph, 100% new oak. Emmanuel Bonneau technical director, Eric Boissenot consultant.

Following the 2018 (and tasted next to the 2020), the 2019 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou comes across as more refined and elegant, with a straight, focused, still full-bodied profile that has pure cassis and blue-tinged fruits as well as textbook tobacco leaf, violets, and graphite. It’s a regal, refined, aristocratic Ducru Beaucaillou that has ultra-fine tannins and a layered, seamless mouthfeel, and while it’s seriously concentrated, it stays graceful and light on its feet. It’s closed down slightly since release, so this beauty needs a solid 7-8 years in the cellar. (JD) 98+

This is so seductive on the nose, with perfumes of violets, blackcurrants, raspberries, and orange peel. Subtle. Ethereal. Full-bodied with such fine tannins and delicacy, with great length and beauty. Sophisticated and refined. Really amazing purity and depth. Great length, too. Leave this for at least five or six years.