The 2006 Cristal is a rich, explosive wine that captures all of the natural radiance of this warm year. Ample and full-bodied, the 2006 is one of the more extroverted recent Cristals. As such, it will drink well now, even though it has more than enough body to drink well for another 20 years or more. This shows real density and tons of character. It’s a big wine. “In retrospect, we might have preferred a lower dosage, but the wine was quite difficult to balance in blending, so we had to go for a higher dosage,” Lécaillon adds. Dosage is 9 grams per liter. Disgorged: 2014. (AG)

Deep maturing nose with plenty of ripe pear and apricot, plus a whiff of smoke. This is a big and powerful champagne with notes of spice and grapefruit alongside some red berry fruit from pinot noir. Long chalky finish that’s more vibrant than the first impression suggests.

The first known bottling of this cuvee was created in 1876 by Louis Roederer to satisfy the demanding tastes of Tsar Alexander II. While there is no known disgorgement date for this impressive release, this ethereal bottling is a perfect secret. The 2006 is a blend of estate-grown Pinot Noir (55%) and Chardonnay (45%) which was 20% fermented in oak with weekly lees stirring to give the wine richness, even though there is no malolactic fermentation. The dosage is between eight to ten grams per liter. The wine opens with brilliant aromas of pear, starfruit, mushroom and brioche which leap from the glass. On the palate there are flavors of red delicious apple, pear and starfruit with a striking effervescence followed by a long and lingering finish that lasts more than 30 seconds. Simply put, the 2006 is another magnificent Cristal which should age gracefully. (OB)