The fruit in the 2019 Coulée de Serrant is so superlative that it ought to get a perfect 100. However, something happened between the vine and the glass that has made it a bit funky, compromising its beauty. It's a little barnyardy and has aromas of cider apples, which throws up a few question marks, though the texture and structure are impeccable. Offering excellent weight, roundness and density, this wine conveys a sense of being at ease with itself and not trying too hard – perhaps that's something to do with the biodynamics. The phenolics are beautifully handled, providing just the amount of grip and fine-grained texture that you want from a dry Chenin Blanc. The finishing fragrance is all apples and florals. An outstanding wine from an exceptional site, but this songbird's voice has been slightly muffled. (RG)