2020 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru "Le Porusots"

The 2020 Meursault 1er Cru Porusot wafts from the glass with notes of lime zest, white flowers, pear, orange oil and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, it's chalky and mineral, with a racy, tightly wound profile by the standards of a climat that often produces a more demonstrative style of Meursault. Jean-Marc Roulot likes his 2020s out of the gates. Comparing them with his 2019s, wines which took time to come together with élevage and in bottle, he observes that "I see myself so much more in the 2020s." The whole domaine was picked between August 20 and 29, three days less than it generally takes Roulot's team, and he reports pHs and alcohols similar to 2017. In the cellar, he's using less new oak, adding ceramic vessels and foudres. The result is a compelling range of pure, precise and expressive whites that will delight admirers of Roulot's fine-boned, incisive style. I can't wait to revisit them from bottle. (WK)