The skillfully crafted Gosset Champagnes remain in good hands with the current cellar master Odilon de Varine, as evidenced by this fascinating rosé Champagne. Over the past 25 years, the vintage rosé version of this Celebris cuvée has been released only for the 1998, 2003, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Produced from a blend of grand cru Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with a dosage of 5g/L. The complex bouquet is redolent with delicious pastry notes of the famous pink biscuit of Reims and ripe blackberries. On the palate, this is a powerful, densely textured but beautifully balanced Champagne that merits cellaring for several years for it to come completely into focus. (YC)

Offering beautiful freshness and purity, the 2008 Celebreis Brut Rose is 72% Chardonnay and the rest Pinot Noir (8% of which is red wine) and pours a pure salmon hue. It is fresh with cherry blossom, grapefruit, and pastry crust, and it has a pillowy mousse and a bit more tension through the back end, with a refreshing lift of acidity. A very attractive wine, it will be wonderful to enjoy now or over the next 20 years. (AF)

A Chardonnay-dominated rosé, this Champagne is fruity while also textured. It is a structured wine, full of minerals and still amazingly young. With its freshness almost entirely intact and few signs of maturity, the wine could obviously age further. Drink now, because it is a great wine, alternatively age at least until 2025. (RV)