The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Village from the domaine has a vibrant bouquet with red cherries and wild strawberry, touches orange zest. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, fresh with a light saline note. Quite Morey-like in style with good length, this shows a little more concentration than the négoce offering. Well worth seeking out. (NM)

Another cuvée that stands out as a best-ever for the domaine is the basic 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Village. Revealing aromas of cherries, sweet berries and petals, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and charming, with an enveloping profile and beautiful purity of fruit. The 2020 vintage is Pierre Duroché's greatest to date. Harvest began at this address on August 19, and yields were lower than in 2019 or 2018, delivering a supplemental level of concentration which, married with the vibrancy characteristic of the vintage and the domaine's gentle winemaking style, has resulted in a spectacular set of wines. If the crowning achievement is a tiny old-vine cuvée of Clos de Bèze that will be to all intents and purposes unobtainable, the quality is apparent across the whole range, so don't neglect the communal bottlings. What's more, on a separate visit to the domaine, I also took the opportunity to look at some of the bottled 2019s, which have realized all the potential they showed in barrel. (WK)