The 2019 vintage was a little unpredictable, with 26 passes in the vineyard between late February and late April to determine optimal ripeness. Each pass was separately vinified, some for zing, others for a more raisin-like profile, blended together late during fermentation for balance, the skill of Matt Day’s guidance is allowing the fermentation to stop naturally through this meticulous process. Aged for 15 months in 50% new French and Hungarian oak followed by a further 15 months larger format foudres the result secures Matt’s place in winemaking history as a youthful legend with another near perfect release of this iconic sweet wine. Glimmering gold in the glass it’s a gorgeous whirl of apricot, orange blossom, hay and lemon curd. Lightly syrupy texture with an uptick of gingery orange zest, there’s a lengthy spiciness to the accomplished finish which soars and surges all at once. For Muscat de Frontignan to feel this elegant and sippable so young is dreamy. If you’ve the patience to cellar it, expect great things. Otherwise this is the ultimate teatime wine to pour right now. (OS)