The 2019 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is a wine that brought tears to my eyes. Unfurling in the glass with scents of rose petals, black tea, wild berries, exotic spices, violets, bergamot and licorice, it's full-bodied, sensual and enveloping, with a broad attack that segues into a weightless but pungently intense mid-palate defined by striking energy and precision. Seamless and elegant, with melting tannins and mouthwatering acids, it concludes with an expansive, intensely floral finish. It's a monument in the making. This was a particularly memorable tasting at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Revisiting the bottled 2019s was thrilling, as these are some of the most sensual, dramatic young wines I've ever tasted at this address; and the young 2020s, tasted from barrel (with the exception of several cuvées that had been recently racked), show immense potential too. A few small evolutions have been made in the cellars in the last few years, with Tonnellerie La Grange increasingly in evidence alongside historically dominant François Frères on the red side of the ledger, and barrels from Séguin Morey, Damy and Taransaud to be found in the new room devoted to the domaine's white wines. Bottling is also a touch earlier than in the past. (WK)

The 2019 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on 17 of September at 22.5hL/ha. I left my glass for five minutes before the first sip since it does not like to give everything away at first pouring. Firstly, it is a little deeper in colour than other recent vintages. Waiting for the wine to open pays dividends, revealing exquisitely-defined brambly red fruit, incense and red roses. There is a very slight gamey element, not strong, but just lingers off-stage. The palate is medium-bodied with lace-like tannins that frame the otherworldly, pure, red fruit. It is perfectly balanced and bewitchingly pure, a crescendo of flavour that this year, at least at this early juncture, put the La Tâche in its place. So elegant on the finish and remarkably persistent, this is just perfection in a glass. 409 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in bottle tasting in London. (NM)

This too is restrained to the point of being almost completely inexpressive and even extensive swirling barely reveals the most floral nose of all, along with discreetly perfumed, exotic and elegant aromas of Asian-style tea, sandalwood and ripe yet cool red and dark currant. The equally cool, pure and highly energetic large-scale flavors also possess a simply gorgeous mid-palate texture that contrasts somewhat with the compact, backward and taciturn finish that possess stunningly good complexity and incredible persistence. Other than the barest suggestion of warmth, the balance is perfect and like all of the greatest vintages of this storied and multi-faceted wine, the word that comes to mind is Zen as the sense of harmony is unmatched. As was the case from barrel last year, I could again taste this wine three days later and while I don't pretend to know if the 2019 RC will ultimately match the finest vintages over the past 100 years, based on the underlying material, it certainly has a very good chance of doing so. In sum, Burgundy doesn't get much, indeed if any, better than this.