The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes is excellent, unfurling in the glass with notes of smoky pear, chamomile, honeycomb, mint and oatmeal. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and fleshy, with bright balancing acids to underpin its layered, satiny-textured but tight-knit core, concluding with a long, precise finish. Given its structure and old-school profile, this will merit some patience, though it's not in any sense, austere. (WK)