2011 is a year that continues to surprise. Warm and dry conditions from March into May set up an early harvest, but the growing season was cool and wet, dashing grower’s hopes. Despite the dreary summer, however, some lovely wines were made. The Comtes is voluptuous and almost dense, with aromas that blend green apple and nectarine with floral notes and a hint of toast. A slightly lower dosage, fresh acidity, and a touch of bitterness bring balance and length to this wine. Much better than I dared hope. (CC)

The 2011 Champagne Blanc de Blancs Comte de Champagne is from all the Grand Crus of the Côte de Blancs except for Oiry. With a kiss of toasted brioche, caramel apple, and a hint of saline, this wine gets more savory as it opens, although it has a bit of greenness. The palate is full, with a fine mousse and a dusty feel of chalk, as well as fresh and pithy citrus. (AF)

A minerally version, with smoke and saline notes deftly meshed with flavors of glazed apple, lemon-infused pastry cream and marzipan. This is fine and softly creamy in texture, with lemony acidity providing good definition through to the lightly toasty finish. Elegant. 2,800 cases imported. (AN)