The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Village unwinds in the glass, shedding a touch of youthful reduction to reveal aromas of pear, orange oil, white flowers and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity, fine concentration and a chalky finish, it's a success. Pierre Vincent told me that Domaine Leflaive began their harvest in 2019 on September 11, preferring not to start too precipitously and rather to wait for full maturity. Alcohol levels range between 13.5% and 14.5%, accompanied by low pHs, and as usual, élevage began with a year in barrel (from a variety of coopers, including Séguin Moreau and Chassin) followed by six months or so in tank on the lees before bottling under Diam 30. Concentrated and incisive, this is an impressive range of wines that are clearly built to age (indeed, several cuvées showed a touch of youthful reduction out of the gates) and which confirm that Domaine Leflaive is back at the top of its game. Everything reviewed here comes warmly recommended. (WK)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Village, matured in 15% new oak, has an intense bouquet with cold flint and sea cave aromas that you would guess come from a much cooler growing season. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a touch of bitter lemon and a dab of spice towards the cohesive and quite persistent finish. Very long. Closure: Diam 30 (NM)