The 2018 Haut-Bages Libéral is super-impressive right out of the gate. It shows all the depth and intensity I saw from barrel, with maybe a bit more tannic impact. Ripe red cherry, plum, orange peel, cedar and sweet spice all build in the glass. The 2018 is going to need a few years to come into its own, but it is a gorgeous Pauillac. (AG) 94+

Dark, sweet and richly concentrated on the nose, with layers of black cherry skins, black pepper, graphite, tar and dried violets, rich yet it suggests a fresh and linear definition. The palate surprises with a little more plush 2018 texture than the nose had suggested I would find, filling out the midpalate with texture and substance, with layers of graphite, liquorice, black bean and dry currants. This is supported by a rich and generous wrapping of ripe tannins. This remains true to the Haut-Bages-Libéral style, but also seems to capture some of the ripeness, texture and structure of the vintage. Finishing long, with rather peppery and robust grip, this needs another five to ten years.

Some pretty fierce tannins on display; then as it opens the emphasis goes to pencil lead and cassis. There is plenty of Pauillac character here but you have to wait for it to unfurl. Partly aged in amphorae, alongside 40% new oak. A good yield of 45hl/ha despite current conversions to biodynamics. (JA)