Hard to give a wine of the vintage in 2010, as there are so many exceptional bottles from the top estates, but it's not so hard to say that Pauillac is the appellation of the year - and this Mouton shows you why. Gunsmoke and campfire aromatics, glamorously encapsulating the house style with its plush and juicy damson and black cherry fruits, supremely confident, studded with pomegranate, orange peel, cumin and freshly cut herbs, generous without relinquishing control, deceptively supple tannins that know exactly what to do. Will deliver for decades, and it is an exceptionally beautiful wine. 100% new oak, Philippe Dhalluin director. Tasted ex-retail, not ex-château.

You can put the 2010 Château Mouton Rothschild up with the crème de la crème of this great vintage, and it shows the more masculine, structured style of the year while bringing that classic Mouton opulence and sexiness. Blackcurrants, smoked tobacco, graphite, and spring flower notes all shine here, and this beauty is full-bodied, has a flawlessly layered, balanced mouthfeel, and a blockbuster finish. This is classic Mouton magic, and it’s one of the most textured, seamless wines out there. Drink 2025-2050.

Clearly a perfect wine that shows incredible depth of fruit with currants, dark chocolate, minerals and licorice. Full-bodied, tight and wound up with ripe tannins that let go and seduce you. Makes me want to drink it now. But this is a wine for the long term. Extraordinary.