2011 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru "Les Beaux Monts"

While the increments to which I refer are small they are nonetheless noticeable as this is aromatically slightly fresher, more elegant and more complex all at once. The highly expressive nose is gorgeously layered, spicy and cool with its ultra-pure dark pinot fruit, plum, cassis and wet stone scents. The medium weight flavors are impressively rich but there is a palpable sense of underlying tension and energy that make this a pleasure to taste. Moreover the borderline pungent minerality adds more lift, particularly on the overtly austere, linear, focused and hugely persistent finish. As good as the Brûlées is, and make no mistake it is terrific, this just offers another level of class and refinement.