The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes confirms its brilliant showing from barrel, offering up a lovely bouquet of fresh pear, mandarin, buttered apples, white flowers and fresh pastry, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional palate that's muscular, structured and concentrated, with fine cut and a long, chalky finish. As is quite often the case, I have a preference for this Charmes over Lafon's Perrières this year, though it will be interesting to put that contention to the test a decade from now. (WK)

An expressive nose freely offers up distinct notes of hazelnut, acacia blossom, soft wood and lovely spice nuances. The supple, round and seductively textured mid-palate contrasts substantially with the explosively powerful, bone dry and chiseled finale that delivers outstanding depth and persistence. This very crisp effort is terrific and possesses excellent aging potential. *Burghound Outstanding!*

Interestingly, as the Lafon parcel in Charmes was not frosted in 2016, there was higher production here last year than was the case in 2017. In this most recent vintage, there are only twenty barrels of Charmes, whereas last year there were thirty-five! The smaller crop was due to imperfect weather at flowering in 2017, but the resulting wine has turned out brilliantly and this is one of the best recent vintages of Charmes from Dominique Lafon! The bouquet is pure and complex, hopping from the glass in a fine blend of apple pear, coconut, chalky minerality, hazelnuts, a touch of iodine and a lovely base of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full, long and very, very precise, with lovely mid-palate depth, bright, racy acids and fine cut and mineral drive on the very long and complex finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2021-2055)