Wafting from the glass with aromas of honeyed pear, white flowers and yellow orchard fruit, the 2019 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly is medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, with an ample core of ripe, concentrated fruit, bight balancing acids and a long, mineral finish. Joseph Colin—who left Domaine Marc Colin to start a domaine of his own in 2016—is going from strength to strength and is justly delighted with his 2019 portfolio. "We've never had acidities like this with maturity like this," he exclaimed, emphasizing the importance of knowing one's parcels and harvesting at the right moment in a year when sugar could accumulate precipitously. Colin's approach, as I've written before, is to pick ripe grapes, press whole bunches and barrel down without the addition of sulfites or any settling—sulfur dioxide is added only at bottling (which takes place under Diam closures). Wines that are more generously sulfured, he acknowledges, are more tensile and tight-knit, but the tension, he argues, comes from the sulfur, not the terroir. And Colin is happy with what he describes as "a certain immediacy" that comes from low-sulfur élevage, a quality that was manifest in these generous but chiseled 2019s, all of which come heartily recommended. (WK)